Standing water under the rack and OE on the panel is one of the LG dishwasher calls we see most in Lacey and Olympia.

LG dishwashers show two-character codes in the same display that counts down the cycle time. The letters carry the meaning: IE for inlet, OE for outlet, HE for heater, tE for temperature, LE and CE for the motor. Some displays are not faults at all. CL means the controls are locked, and a number from one to twenty-four is a delay start. A code tells you which system the control stopped trusting and nothing more. OE says the tub did not empty; it does not say whether the filter, the drain hose, the air gap or the pump is to blame. Our technicians read the code first and then prove the cause with a meter.
Many LG dishwashers around here sit in newer kitchens: Hawks Prairie subdivisions, Meridian Campus townhomes, Tumwater Valley remodels. OE is the frequent visitor, usually a clogged filter or a countertop air gap packed with debris. AE tends to follow sink soap poured into the dispenser, or a heavy detergent dose in Olympia’s soft water; the foam spills into the base and lifts the float. On private wells near Black Lake or out toward Nisqually, IE appears when iron sediment slows the fill or the pressure sags. PF is the outage marker; after PSE restores power following a fall windstorm, it simply reports that the supply was interrupted, and it rarely means a part has failed.
| Code | What it means | Safe first check | When to call us |
|---|---|---|---|
| AE / E1 | A leak in the base has lifted the float switch | Breaker off, water off; check for suds and wipe the door gasket | If it returns, we open the base and find the leak |
| bE | Oversudsing, usually from the wrong detergent | Use dishwasher detergent only; remove suds and run an empty cycle | If suds weren’t the cause, we check leveling and sensing |
| CE | Motor error from the motor or its wiring harness | Cycle power once, then restart the cycle | If it returns, we test the motor and harness on site |
| CL | Control lock is on; not a fault | Hold the CL button or buttons for three seconds | Only if the buttons stay dead after unlocking |
| FE | Too much water in the unit | Cycle power; close the supply valve if it keeps filling | If it persists, the inlet valve or flow sensing needs testing |
| HE | Heater error; water not heating, or heating too far | Cycle power once, then run a normal cycle | If it returns, we meter the heater and its circuit |
| IE | Water level did not rise high enough in time | Open the supply valve fully; check the inlet hose for kinks | Good pressure points to the inlet valve or a clogged screen |
| LE | Wash motor is not running normally | Cycle power; make sure the spray arms turn freely by hand | If it repeats, the motor or harness gets tested |
| nE | Vario motor that routes water to the spray arms has a fault | Rearrange dishes that may block the arms, then restart | If it persists, the vario motor needs inspection |
| OE | Water is not draining from the tub | Clean the filters; check the drain hose, air gap and disposal | If water still sits, we test the drain pump |
| PE | Water level sensor problem | Cycle power once; avoid restarting it again and again | LG treats PE as a service code, so call us |
| PF | Power failure indicator; the supply was interrupted | Confirm the dishwasher breaker is on, then clear and restart | If PF repeats with no outage, the circuit needs checking |
| tE | Temperature sensor or thermal error | Let the tub cool; note when the code appeared | LG says it needs a technician, so call us |
LG’s reset is a power cycle. Turn the dishwasher off, switch off its breaker or unplug it, wait a minute or two, then restore power and start a short cycle. That clears PF and most one-time LE, CE or HE codes after a storm. For OE and IE, fix the cause first, whether a dirty filter or a half-closed valve, or the code simply returns. AE is where a quick reset misleads: the float stays lifted until the base pan dries, and the water in that pan came from somewhere. Shut the water off and let us find the leak rather than cycling power again.
We read the code, pull the kick plate and test instead of guessing: drain pump resistance, inlet valve coil, heater continuity, level sensing. You hear the cause in plain terms, and you hold a written figure before any tool touches a part. Accept that figure and our $99 diagnostic already sits within it; say no and you pay that $99 alone. We keep LG drain pumps and inlet valves on hand, so a Jubilee or Horizon Pointe kitchen is often washing again on the same visit. We finish with a test load, a look at the floor under the door, and the warranty in writing.
OE means the tub did not drain. LG points first to the filters, which trap food and slow the flow, then to a kinked, clogged or frozen drain hose, and to a packed air gap or disposal inlet. On a new install, the disposal’s knockout plug may still be in. Clean the filter assembly, check under the sink, then run a rinse. If water still sits, the drain pump needs testing.
AE, or E1 on some models, means water in the base has lifted the leak float. In Olympia’s soft water, a common cause is too much detergent or regular dish soap, which foams over. Door gasket grime, a blocked spray arm and an unlevel machine are others on LG’s list. Switch it off, close the supply valve and wipe the gasket. If AE returns with correct detergent, our crew traces the leak.
IE means the water level did not rise high enough in the time allowed. LG lists a supply valve that is not fully open, low water pressure and a kinked inlet hose. On a private well, check other faucets: weak flow points to the well system or a clogged sediment filter. If the house pressure is good, iron deposits on the inlet valve screen are our next suspect.
Not usually. PF is LG’s power failure indicator, and it often appears after a PSE outage or a tripped breaker. Confirm the dishwasher’s breaker is on and that the machine has its own properly sized circuit, then clear the display and run a cycle. If PF keeps returning without an outage, have an electrician look at the circuit, and we will check the control once the supply is steady.
Often yes, depending on the tub, racks and door. LE and CE point to the wash motor or its wiring; HE points to the heater circuit. We meter the part before quoting, so the written price names the failed part and everything the repair covers. A cracked tub or door hinges rusted through change the answer, and we will say plainly that the repair isn’t worth making. You decide from a written price.
Book the $99 diagnostic. We confirm the part, write the price, and the visit is inside it when you approve.